Zitenge
by Hope Stanger
It is hard to pinpoint the exact origins of the chitenge because its use was a gradual thing. Traditionally, Zambians wore animal skins and beaded skirts. In modern times, as western influences arrived, fabric became available. Zitenge were not popular at first because they came mostly from neighboring countries. Shortly after Independence though, the Mulungushi Textiles and the Cofuie Textiles opened factories in Zambia. Since then, zitenge have become ever more pervasive. Now they are considered a national dress that all women and older girls wear.2
First and foremost, zitenge represent decency. In Zambia the exposed thigh is considered immoral. Thighs are reserved for the husband only because Zambians believe men become attracted to thighs too quickly. Pants on women are even discouraged because they show the shape of that area too well. Thus zitenge are used to cover that area. Practically, zitenge are stiffer than other skirts so they allow women to work more freely around the house since they don’t reveal anything as easily. Also, on a windy day, a woman will wrap a chitenge around another skirt to stay decent. The same principle applies to when women sit on mats then have to bend to get up and when they must maneuver on a journey. All of these examples show how a chitenge provides coverage for the sensitive area of the thighs.
Zitenge also symbolize respect. Respect includes observing all of society’s morals. If you rebel against society, society as a whole is affected. Zambians show respect in many ways, such as kneeling and clapping. It is not supposed to be bothersome; instead it becomes part of you. This is how the wearing of zitenge has become. Everyone knows that when you are wearing a chitenge, you are showing humility and deference. Thus, wearing a chitenge is almost mandatory for a church service, in order to demonstrate respect for God.
Finally, zitenge are an integral part of a good reputation and the model of being truly cultured. Women are supposed to teach their children the importance of wearing a chitenge by example. If someone doesn’t wear them, they are perceived as immoral. It can even become very difficult to get married if you are known for not wearing a chitenge because it shows you do not respect the culture and are not from a good family.
The many diverse colors and patterns do not symbolize anything special like the Nigerian long dress does. However, some organizations use the chitenge to promote themselves. For example, every political party in Zambia has their emblems and colors on zitenge. Some churches such as the Catholic Church also put icons and religious writing on zitenge. Sometimes a church on Sunday will be filled with similar colors and patterns because of the affiliation attached to the clothing.
Lastly, zitenge are utilized in dancing. Traditionally, dancing is used to attract the opposite sex.3 It is a way for society to bring couples together. The tied nature of the chitenge shows the flexibility of the body movements. Many times a boy who is not married will see a woman dancing and then decide to marry her. Dance is also used to praise God though. It is said to be in the blood of an African to show joy through dancing so one way to praise Him is to dance. Yet it must still be respectful so a chitenge must be worn.
Zitenge truly embody a part of Zambian culture and hold an important place in society. Although its history is relatively short, a chitenge captures many rich symbolisms. It has become so pervasive that it is used in so many ways for all the people. It is rich in culture and is important as it exemplifies the values of Zambia.
Munife sitenge nibinele mulena aka, Munife sitenge nibinele mulena aka, Wanifa moya wamahala ndante ni kamulumbeka na, Wanifa moya wamahala ndante ni kamulumbeka naIn every culture, certain objects come to symbolize important aspects of their specific society. One such important emblem for Zambia is the chitenge (or zitenge, plural). A chitenge is a long piece of cloth that is usually used as a tie-around skirt. Yet its influence reaches far beyond a simple fashion statement or article of clothing. They can be seen all over and are even mentioned in praise songs to God (as seen above). The chitenge has become such an integral part of Zambian culture that it symbolizes respect, decency, and humility.
(Give me a sitenge1, I will dance for my Lord He gives me free life, I will praise Him)
It is hard to pinpoint the exact origins of the chitenge because its use was a gradual thing. Traditionally, Zambians wore animal skins and beaded skirts. In modern times, as western influences arrived, fabric became available. Zitenge were not popular at first because they came mostly from neighboring countries. Shortly after Independence though, the Mulungushi Textiles and the Cofuie Textiles opened factories in Zambia. Since then, zitenge have become ever more pervasive. Now they are considered a national dress that all women and older girls wear.2
First and foremost, zitenge represent decency. In Zambia the exposed thigh is considered immoral. Thighs are reserved for the husband only because Zambians believe men become attracted to thighs too quickly. Pants on women are even discouraged because they show the shape of that area too well. Thus zitenge are used to cover that area. Practically, zitenge are stiffer than other skirts so they allow women to work more freely around the house since they don’t reveal anything as easily. Also, on a windy day, a woman will wrap a chitenge around another skirt to stay decent. The same principle applies to when women sit on mats then have to bend to get up and when they must maneuver on a journey. All of these examples show how a chitenge provides coverage for the sensitive area of the thighs.
Zitenge also symbolize respect. Respect includes observing all of society’s morals. If you rebel against society, society as a whole is affected. Zambians show respect in many ways, such as kneeling and clapping. It is not supposed to be bothersome; instead it becomes part of you. This is how the wearing of zitenge has become. Everyone knows that when you are wearing a chitenge, you are showing humility and deference. Thus, wearing a chitenge is almost mandatory for a church service, in order to demonstrate respect for God.
Finally, zitenge are an integral part of a good reputation and the model of being truly cultured. Women are supposed to teach their children the importance of wearing a chitenge by example. If someone doesn’t wear them, they are perceived as immoral. It can even become very difficult to get married if you are known for not wearing a chitenge because it shows you do not respect the culture and are not from a good family.
The many diverse colors and patterns do not symbolize anything special like the Nigerian long dress does. However, some organizations use the chitenge to promote themselves. For example, every political party in Zambia has their emblems and colors on zitenge. Some churches such as the Catholic Church also put icons and religious writing on zitenge. Sometimes a church on Sunday will be filled with similar colors and patterns because of the affiliation attached to the clothing.
Lastly, zitenge are utilized in dancing. Traditionally, dancing is used to attract the opposite sex.3 It is a way for society to bring couples together. The tied nature of the chitenge shows the flexibility of the body movements. Many times a boy who is not married will see a woman dancing and then decide to marry her. Dance is also used to praise God though. It is said to be in the blood of an African to show joy through dancing so one way to praise Him is to dance. Yet it must still be respectful so a chitenge must be worn.
Zitenge truly embody a part of Zambian culture and hold an important place in society. Although its history is relatively short, a chitenge captures many rich symbolisms. It has become so pervasive that it is used in so many ways for all the people. It is rich in culture and is important as it exemplifies the values of Zambia.
- Sitenge is the Lozi word for the tie-around skirt; the Tonga people use the word chitenge. ↩
- Zitenge are used in a plethora of different ways. They are mainly used as skirts for women, but they can also be made into women’s dresses and suits or men’s shirts. They are employed as baby carriers and bags when they are tied around the back to hold something. Many people even carry an extra one to use as a rain coat during the rainy season to wrap around themselves if the weather changes. Basically, because of the tailors in town, zitenge can be made into anything for any purpose. ↩
- This is not the dancing that we think of in America. Men and women do not dance facing each other and they usually dance apart, in different groups. Instead, it is a way to express gladness, and a social structure for innocent attraction. ↩
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